Home Inspection
Plumbing System & Fixture Inspection
Water damage is the second most common home insurance claim in the country — and most of it starts with something a plumber could have spotted months earlier. A dripping supply line behind the dishwasher. A toilet flapper that runs silently for years. A water heater at year nine with a failing anode rod. We find the slow problems before they become expensive ones.
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Problem Pipe Materials Still Found in Millions of Homes
Just as certain electrical panels have well-documented failure rates, certain plumbing pipe materials have failure and leak histories that can affect your insurance coverage, your home’s resale value, and your daily water safety. Homes built or plumbed before 1995 should be specifically assessed for these materials — most homeowners don’t know what’s running through their walls:
Polybutylene pipe was subject to a class-action settlement and is no longer manufactured — but it remains in millions of homes built between 1978 and 1995. Many insurance companies now flag or exclude PB pipe homes. Our inspection identifies pipe materials throughout accessible areas and documents them in your report.
Inspection Only — Clear Findings, Zero Upsell Pressure
Plumbing is a category where unscrupulous contractors manufacture urgency to sell repairs on the spot. Our technicians document exactly what they find — with severity ratings, photos, and honest context on what needs immediate attention versus what can be monitored. If your system is in good shape, your report says so. You’re never pressured to book repairs during or after the inspection.
What’s Covered
Six Plumbing Systems. One Complete Assessment.
Your home’s plumbing covers everything from water entry at the meter to drainage out through the sewer — and every fixture, water heater, and supply line in between. We inspect all of it in a single visit.
Supply Pipes, Shutoffs & Water Pressure
Your supply system starts at the main shutoff and branches to every fixture in the home. Pressure problems, pipe material issues, and corroded or seized shutoff valves are all supply-side problems that compound over time.
- Identify supply pipe material throughout all accessible areas — copper, PVC, PEX, galvanized, polybutylene
- Test static water pressure at multiple points — ideal range is 40–80 PSI; over 80 PSI accelerates wear on fixtures and appliances
- Inspect and operate main shutoff valve — a seized shutoff is a critical risk during any plumbing emergency
- Check pressure-reducing valve (PRV) if present — test for correct function and age
- Inspect visible supply lines for corrosion, pinhole leaks, scale buildup, or improper repairs
- Check flexible supply lines to toilets, sinks, and appliances for age and condition — braided stainless vs. corrugated plastic
Fixtures — Sinks, Toilets, Tubs & Showers
Fixtures are the most-used part of your plumbing system and the most likely to develop slow leaks, inefficiencies, and drainage problems that go unnoticed until they’ve caused real damage.
- Test all sink faucets for flow rate, temperature response, and drain speed
- Inspect under-sink cabinets for moisture, past leaks, and supply/drain connection condition
- Test all toilets for proper fill, flush, and drain — detect running toilets using dye test
- Check toilet base for rocking, wax ring seal integrity, and floor condition around base
- Inspect tub and shower drains for slow drainage, overflow plate condition, and grout/caulk integrity
- Check showerhead, valve, and diverter operation — identify water hammer, cross-flow, or pressure issues
Water Heater — Tank & Tankless
The water heater is the plumbing component most likely to cause significant damage when it fails — and the one most often ignored until it’s too late. A failing anode rod, sediment buildup, and a deteriorated temperature-pressure relief valve are all silent failures.
- Document water heater age, model, and tank capacity — assess remaining service life
- Test output temperature at nearest fixture — target 120°F for safety and legionella prevention
- Inspect anode rod status if accessible — this is the single most critical maintenance item on any tank water heater
- Check temperature-pressure relief (TPR) valve condition and discharge pipe routing
- Flush sediment sample and assess buildup level — sediment causes efficiency loss and premature failure
- Inspect gas or electrical connections, venting, and seismic straps where required
- For tankless units: check inlet filter, descaling status, and combustion venting condition
Drain, Waste & Vent (DWV) System
Slow drains are the most common plumbing complaint — and the least taken seriously. A drain that’s slow today is a backed-up drain or a flooded bathroom tomorrow. Vent problems cause drainage issues and allow sewer gas into the home.
- Test drainage flow rate at all sinks, tubs, showers, and laundry connection
- Identify slow drains and distinguish between isolated clogs vs. main line restriction
- Inspect P-traps under sinks for leaks, improper slope, and S-trap configurations
- Check cleanout access points and assess accessibility for future main line service
- Look for signs of drain line sag, improper pitch, or root intrusion in accessible areas
- Identify any evidence of sewer gas odor, which indicates a vent problem or failed trap
Appliance Plumbing Connections
Dishwashers, washing machines, refrigerator ice makers, and whole-home water filtration systems all have plumbing connections that fail gradually and often invisibly. The space behind and beneath these appliances is the most common source of hidden slow leaks.
- Inspect dishwasher supply line and drain connection — check for high-loop or air gap on drain
- Check washing machine inlet hoses — flag rubber hoses over 5 years old for replacement with braided stainless
- Inspect refrigerator ice maker supply line — plastic tubing connections are a common source of slow cabinet leaks
- Check whole-home filter housings, softener connections, and reverse osmosis systems if present
- Use moisture meter to check surrounding cabinetry and flooring for evidence of past or active leaks
Exterior Plumbing & Accessible Crawlspace
Exterior hose bibs, irrigation shutoffs, and exposed crawlspace plumbing are among the most commonly neglected parts of a home’s plumbing system — and among the most likely to fail during a freeze event or remain unrepaired after one.
- Test all exterior hose bibs for proper operation and shutoff — identify non-frost-proof bibs in freeze climates
- Inspect irrigation system backflow preventer and main shutoff condition
- Check crawlspace supply and drain lines for leaks, insulation, and pipe condition
- Look for evidence of past freeze damage, improper repairs, or unsupported pipe runs in crawlspace
- Inspect sump pump if present — test operation, float switch, and discharge line routing
Visual Reference Guide
Healthy vs. Failing — What Our Technicians Look For
Most plumbing problems develop slowly and stay invisible until they cause damage. Here’s what distinguishes a healthy system from one that’s quietly working against you.
Supply Pipe Condition
✓ Healthy
✗ Flagged
Copper or PEX with clean joints, no discoloration, properly supported — no evidence of weeping or mineral deposits at connections
Galvanized steel with orange/brown scale at fittings, polybutylene gray pipe, pinhole corrosion on copper, or green oxidation at joints
Water Heater Anode Rod
✓ Serviceable
✗ Depleted
Rod has material remaining — more than ½” diameter core, minimal pitting — still protecting the tank from corrosion
Rod is fully depleted — bare wire core visible, or missing entirely — tank is now corroding from inside, lifespan significantly shortened
Toilet Flapper & Fill Valve
✓ Functioning
✗ Running
Tank fills to correct level and stops — flapper seats completely, no water sound between flushes, dye test shows no bowl migration
Dye test shows color in bowl without flushing — toilet is running silently, wasting up to 37 gallons per day — flapper or fill valve failure
Water Pressure Reading
✓ Normal
✗ Problem
Static pressure 40–80 PSI — adequate for fixtures and appliances without stressing supply lines, valves, or water heater connections
Pressure above 80 PSI — accelerates washer wear in valves, stresses supply lines, and shortens appliance lifespan; below 40 PSI — inadequate flow for fixtures
P-Trap & Drain Condition
✓ Correct
✗ Problem
P-trap holds water seal, no odor, drain slope allows complete clearance — slip joint fittings tight, no moisture on cabinet floor below
S-trap configuration (creates siphoning, allows sewer gas entry), standing water in trap arm, or active seep at slip joint — all require correction
Washing Machine Hoses
✓ Safe
✗ Replace Now
Braided stainless steel hoses, under 5 years old — fittings show no corrosion, hose body flexible with no bulging or cracking at bends
Rubber hoses over 5 years old, or any hose with bulging at fittings — rubber hose failure is one of the most common causes of catastrophic home flooding
Don’t Ignore These
Six Plumbing Warning Signs That Mean Act Now
These aren’t inconveniences — they’re early indicators of plumbing failures that cost significantly more to fix the longer they go unaddressed. If you recognize any of these, book an inspection before they escalate.
Water Stains on Ceilings or Walls
A brown or yellow stain on a ceiling below a bathroom is almost always an active or past plumbing leak — wax ring failure, supply line seep, or drain connection issue above. The stain you can see represents the perimeter of damage that’s already spread through the drywall and subfloor. The leak itself is usually still active and still spreading.
Sudden or Gradual Drop in Water Pressure
Pressure loss at a single fixture is usually a clogged aerator. Pressure loss throughout the home is a different problem — it indicates a partially failed PRV, a supply line developing a partial blockage, a hidden leak bleeding pressure off the system, or galvanized pipe restriction. All of these require investigation rather than a wait-and-see approach.
Running Water Sound When No Fixtures Are On
If you can hear water moving through pipes when everything is off, you have either a running toilet (check first — it’s usually the culprit) or an active leak somewhere in the system. Turn off your main shutoff and check your water meter. If the meter dial is still moving, water is leaving the system somewhere — and finding where it’s going is an emergency-level priority.
Rusty, Discolored, or Smelly Water
Orange or brown water indicates either a water heater tank corroding from the inside (a depleted anode rod is the usual cause) or galvanized steel supply pipes that are rusting out from within. Sulfur smell typically means a water heater that has been left at too low a temperature, allowing bacterial growth in the tank. None of these improve on their own.
Multiple Slow Drains Throughout the Home
One slow drain is an isolated clog. Slow drains in multiple fixtures — especially on the same floor or draining toward the same stack — means the problem is in the main drain line, not at the fixture. Main line blockages from root intrusion, grease accumulation, or pipe sag don’t respond to drain treatments. They require professional intervention before backup occurs.
Water Bills That Are Climbing Without Explanation
If your water usage hasn’t changed but your bill has, you have a leak somewhere that isn’t visible. A running toilet alone wastes 13,000+ gallons per month. A dripping supply line, a failed irrigation valve, or a pinhole leak in a supply line inside a wall are all common culprits. Your water utility can often tell you whether your usage has actually increased — an inspection pinpoints where it’s going.
The Process
What to Expect During Your Plumbing Inspection
One technician covers every accessible plumbing component in your home — supply, drainage, water heater, all fixtures, and appliance connections — in a single 60–90 minute visit.
History & Symptom Brief
Your technician starts by reviewing your home’s age, any known plumbing history — past repairs, pipe replacements, water heater age — and any specific symptoms you’ve noticed: odors, stains, pressure changes, sounds. This shapes which areas get the most detailed attention.
Supply System & Pressure Testing
Water pressure is measured at multiple points. Pipe materials are identified throughout accessible areas. The main shutoff, PRV, and all visible supply lines are inspected for condition, material type, and any evidence of active or past leaks. Flexible supply lines are checked for age and integrity.
Fixtures, Water Heater & Drains
Every fixture is tested — toilets with dye test, sinks for flow and drainage, tubs and showers for drain speed and valve function. The water heater is assessed for age, temperature, anode rod status, and safety valve condition. Drainage is checked throughout for proper flow and vent function.
24-Hour Digital Report
Your full report is delivered within 24 hours — every system rated by condition (Good / Monitor / Service Soon / Urgent), with photos of flagged items, estimated repair costs where applicable, and pipe material documentation for insurance or sale purposes. All stored permanently in your customer portal.
Reference Guide
Water Heater Age & Condition Assessment Guide
The water heater is the plumbing component most likely to fail without warning and most likely to cause property damage when it does. Here’s how our technicians assess and rate tank condition by age.
| Water Heater Age | Anode Rod Status | TPR Valve | Sediment Level | Inspection Rating |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 0–4 Years | Likely intact — document for baseline | Check installation and routing | Low — annual flush recommended | Good — Monitor |
| 5–7 Years | Inspect and replace if under 50% remaining | Test function — replace if stiff or leaking | Moderate — flush and assess output temp | Good — Service Soon |
| 8–10 Years | High probability of depletion — replacement critical | Replace as preventive measure | High — efficiency measurably impacted | Monitor Closely |
| 11–13 Years | Almost certainly depleted — tank corroding | Replace immediately | Very high — bottom corrosion likely | Plan Replacement |
| 14+ Years | Anode gone — internal corrosion advanced | Likely stuck or non-functional | Severe — possible structural tank failure risk | Replace — Do Not Wait |
| Tankless — Any Age | N/A — no anode rod | Check PRV and condensate drain | Descale inlet filter — check heat exchanger | Rated by condition |
What Does a Plumbing System Inspection Cost?
Pricing scales with home size and system complexity. Get your exact quote in minutes — no obligation to proceed with any repairs.
Before Your Visit
How to Prepare for Your Plumbing Inspection
Access is everything with a plumbing inspection. The more your technician can reach, the more complete the assessment — and the more useful the report.
Prep Checklist
- Know where your main water shutoff is located — and make sure it’s accessible. If you don’t know where it is, that’s the first thing your technician will help you identify. Don’t have stored items blocking the shutoff area
- Clear under-sink cabinets in kitchen and all bathrooms — the technician needs to access supply line connections, drain connections, and check for moisture inside all base cabinets. Clearing cleaning products and stored items before the visit saves significant time
- Ensure access to the water heater — clear any stored items around it. If it’s in a closet, make sure the door can fully open. If in a crawlspace or attic, make sure access is unobstructed
- Clear access to crawlspace or basement — if your home has a crawlspace or unfinished basement with exposed plumbing, the hatch or door needs to be accessible and the technician needs to be able to enter
- Note any specific symptoms you’ve noticed — write down any slow drains, sounds, odors, stains, or pressure changes you’ve experienced and in which rooms. This guides where the inspection focuses
- Know your water heater’s age if possible — check the serial number label on the tank. Most manufacturers encode the manufacture year in the first letters or numbers of the serial number. Your technician can decode it on-site if needed
- Have washing machine and dishwasher supply line access clear — the technician will inspect behind and beneath both. Pull the washer slightly forward if possible, or ensure the technician can access the wall connection behind it
Related Services
Plumbing Services & Related Inspections
From inspection findings to full plumbing service — NorTech handles what comes next.
FAQs
Frequently Asked Questions
Common questions about what’s inspected, how pipe material findings are used, and what happens when an active issue is found during the visit.
Polybutylene (PB) pipe is typically gray, flexible plastic — you may see it entering the home from the water meter, running along basement or crawlspace walls, or connecting to fixtures under sinks. It was used extensively from the late 1970s through the mid-1990s and is often labeled “PB2110” on the pipe surface. However, PB is sometimes concealed entirely inside walls, making it impossible to confirm presence without a dedicated inspection.
Our inspection identifies and documents pipe material in all accessible areas. If PB is confirmed, this is documented in your report with photos — information relevant for insurance applications, home sale disclosures, and remediation planning.
No — a sewer scope (camera inspection of the main sewer line from cleanout to street) is a separate specialized service and is not included in the standard plumbing inspection. The standard inspection assesses drainage flow at all fixtures and looks for signs of main line restriction, but does not include a camera inspection of the lateral. If the inspection reveals symptoms that suggest a main line issue — slow drains throughout, backups, odor — we can recommend adding a sewer scope as a follow-on service.
Your technician will alert you immediately and advise you on whether to shut off the water supply to that fixture or the main shutoff to the home — and walk you through how to do it if you need guidance. The leak is documented with photos and rated Urgent in your report. You can request emergency repair scheduling through your customer portal immediately after the inspection concludes. Your technician won’t perform the repair during the inspection visit, but can expedite the dispatch process for you on-site.
Yes — and this is one of the most common use cases for a plumbing inspection. Many insurers now ask about pipe material, water heater age, and whether the home has had a plumbing inspection. A documented report with pipe material identification, water heater assessment, and condition ratings provides the evidence insurers ask for — both to secure coverage initially and to demonstrate proactive maintenance for premium purposes.
A re-pipe addresses supply lines, but drain lines, fixtures, water heater, and appliance connections are typically not replaced as part of a re-pipe. If your water heater is the same one that was there 15 years ago, it’s past or approaching end of life. Flexible supply lines to fixtures have a 10–12 year service life. A re-pipe from 15 years ago means the newer supply system is in mid-life — but everything else around it may be well overdue for assessment.
The inspection checks the irrigation system’s main shutoff valve and backflow preventer — the connection point to your home’s supply system. A full irrigation system inspection covering all zones, heads, valves, and controller programming is a separate service. If your backflow preventer is aging or your irrigation shutoff is inaccessible, that’s flagged in your report as a follow-on item.
Yes — same-day availability in 100+ cities. If you have a specific urgent concern — a sound you can’t place, a stain that appeared overnight, a water bill that spiked — flag the urgency when booking and we’ll prioritize your appointment. For any situation involving an active water leak you can’t control with a fixture shutoff, turn off the main water supply to the home first, then book the service.
